Pyrography is the art of burning an image onto wood. Like any other artistic medium it can be as simple or as intricate as the artist wishes. I first discovered the art form after visiting a gallery of local artisans in Wisconsin. There, I came across a pyrographer’s work and even picked up souvenir  - a cute image of birds and flowers burned onto a vintage rolling pin. Being the wannabe jack-of-all-trades that I am, I felt inspired to learn more about pyrography and try my own hand at it.

From the very start I found pyrography to be completely fun and very similar to drawing with a pen or pencil. The same general techniques I use in traditional drawing apply here as well. Getting started is simple and getting great at it just takes some time and practice - as with all skills.

Materials

The main materials needed for wood burning are simple enough – hot pens and suitable wood. However, within this short list of items are a number of variables to consider and make use of. Pens come in different styles with a vast array of nibs. Likewise, wood types vary in hardness and grain with some being easier to work with than others. Additionally, there are a few accessories that can be added to your pyrography kit such as sandpaper and pliers.

Pyrography Pens

Heating Element

When choosing a pyrography pen, the first thing to consider is the heating part of it. Pro models will always be adjustable and get very hot. If buying a more budget friendly model, you’ll want to be on the look out for adjustable heat settings and max temperature.

Some cheap models only power on and off. These types are not recommended at all. Not being able to choose your temperature limits what kind of wood you’ll be able to work with. Additionally, in order to achieve and wide variety of tones within a piece, you will need to be able to adjust how hot the pen gets.

Max temperature is also important as some wood does not burn as easily as others. Typically hardwoods, like maple, require high heat settings to get a dark and rich tones.

Pen Nibs

The first thing you’ll probably want to acquire is a pyrography pen. Pens come in different styles and models for either fine artwork or general crafting. Pro models can be expensive, but as with most art supplies, you get what you pay for. I started out on a cheap crafting model, as it was given to me as a well-meaning gift.  I quickly out grew it, and would not recommend the cheaper models to anyone. Even if you only wish to make wood burning a weekend hobby, a higher quality model allows room to grow and provides a much nicer experience overall.

Pyrography pens can be found with two different styles of tips: wire and brass. Both styles come in a variety of shapes and are interchangeable with their pens. I started out using the brass nib style. I feel this still works well for crafting rather than fine art. When doing a lot of burning on an image, I found the brass nibs required more frequent cleaning. To clean the nib, it first must be cooled down. Likewise, if the nib needs to be changed out, it must also be cooled. I felt the cool down time was an annoying interruption to the workflow.

I eventually upgraded to a wire nib style pen and prefer this style over the brass nibs. The wire nibs pop in and out of the pen allowing for on-the-fly switching of nibs. As a fine artist, I feel the nib shapes are easier to work with. Due to the size and shape of the wire pen wands, much of the process feels the same as drawing with an ink pen or pencil. My own set up is a higher-grade crafter’s model, but most professional kits will come in the wire style. Of brass and wire set-ups, I will always recommend the wire style above all, even when acquiring a crafter’s grade model.

Wood

Not all wood is good for burning, though it certainly can all be burned to some degree. When choosing a wood type, you will need to consider its hard/softness and its grain. Softer wood will burn more easily – allowing you to achieve dark impressions with lower temperature. However, as a tradeoff, mistakes cannot easily be sanded away as with hardwood. Additionally, some hardwoods also required high level of heat to burn. You will typically need a professional kit to use very high heat temps.

The strong appearance of wood grain, or lack-there-of, is another aspect to consider. I feel this is a matter of personal preference, as sometimes I love being able to see the lines of the wood show through the artwork.

Colour is another aspect to be mindful of. Lighter colours will show your work much better and allow for a wider range of tones to be used within your work.

The most common wood types to work with are balsa, basswood, pine, and poplar. These woods are soft, lighter in colour, and have less visible wood grain. These woods vary in cost and availability.

Personally, I love to experiment with all different types of wood – even wood that lacks ease of use. However, there are a few important things to be mindful of and avoid when choosing a piece of wood. Chemically treated wood should never be burned – this includes paint, stains, or other coatings. The burning process can emit harmful chemicals. Likewise, wood that contains glue, such as plywood or other composite material should be avoided for the same reason. It should be noted that some hardwood does naturally contain tree sap, and that is okay.  

Other Supplies

While the wood and pen are obviously the stars of the show, there are a few other times I like to keep on my desk while working. A small glass bowl is a safe and convenient place to cool down hot wire nibs – this is especially handy when using a pen with pop off tips. I piece of scrap wood of the same type as your canvas medium is also helpful. Before I draw anything on my canvas, I like to use scrap wood to test out the heat settings. I’ve been burned in the past, both literally and figuratively, by not realizing I had set the heat too high. Lastly, I always keep a hard pencil (2 to 4H) pencil handy. I like to draw out line work on the wood before burning. Line work helps me visual the image clearly and make temporary changes throughout the process.

Nib Care and Maintenance

Caring for your kit is relatively simple. Soot will collect on the nibs regardless of style. This can easily be wiped off with very fine sandpaper. Overtime nibs will break, and that’s okay. I like to keep spares of my favourites just in case one breaks on me while working on a piece.

Oils from your hands can transfer onto the nib, so I do my best avoid touching them with bare hands. When switching out nibs, I use a pair of needle nose pliers for this reason.

It’s also good practice to never leave the pen turned on unattended and to always use a pen stand to rest a hot pen on. Being mindful of were the pen lays helps to avoid ruining the nib and any surface that isn’t meant to be burned.

Burn baby, burn!

Pyrography is a wonderful art form that I enthusiastically recommend to everyone I know. I don’t think you have to be a great artist to get joy from working in the medium. It can be a serious endeavour or a fun weekend project – it’s truly up to you! This was just a very basic introduction into it, however, I hope it inspires you to give it a try! There are a plethora of reference books and resources out there for more in depth learning. Also to keep in mind, with most things: practice makes perfect and above all – have fun!